an arch wherethro'

"I am a part of all that I have met; yet all experience is an arch wherethro' gleams that untravell'd world whose margin fades for ever and for ever when I move."
Ulysses by Alfred Lord Tennyson

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Location: Searcy, Arkansas, United States

Saturday, June 25, 2011

Arkansas - Home!

We have returned! The trip was exhausting but we all made it safely. At the Memphis airport last night, everyone recieved their luggage except one suitcase of Lauren's. I suspect that the plane from Chicage was just too small to fit everything since most of us had at least two large, 50 pound suitcases each.

We arrived very early at the airport in Lusaka on Thursday. Everyone made it through the exit process smoothly except, nine or ten were told we would need to pick up our boarding passes for the second flight when we arrived in Addis Ababa (never a good sign). We were late getting into Ethiopia and found out quickly that those that didn't have boarding passes were on standby. This was complicated by a three hour delay without food (supper) or water. They finally brought a limited number of drinks just as we boarded after midnight. I had a seat assignment but Ian didn't get a seat until the last minute. We arrived in Washington, D.C. several hours late and rushed through Customs and Immigration only to discover that our luggage had not been checked to Memphis. We had to go out to the check-in counter and recheck our luggage, United couldn't find our reservations, then they had to assign seats (since we didn't have any), and then race for the gate. We barely made the flight. Keri DID come with Gene to Memphis. It was good to see her but since she had to work today, she didn't get much sleep?



We are home, and I woke up on African time. It will take awhile to adjust

Wednesday, June 22, 2011

Last Days in Africa

Yesterday morning followed the usual routine with therapy and activities. The hard part was that we knew it would be the last time we saw some of the kiddos. These children become so much part of our lives during our time here, that it inconceivable that we will suddenly be without them. The afternoon burial of Andrew in the cemetery behind Haven 2 brought it all home and made a difficult day even harder.


The truck carrying the coffin and many mourners arrived around 15:00 hours followed by several cars and a large truck full of mourners. The coffin was placed on a table and opened for viewing. Mama Cecelia spoke, a group of women sang and then all were invited to view the body. In western cultures, mourners are expected to be reserved but I think here they are expected to be demonstrative. We then all walked to the cemetery. They discovered that the coffin would not fit so the grave had to be expanded. Apparently, coffins are not often used. Megan told Andrew’s story but never mentioned his name. She referred to him as “the baby” and “the child”. There must have been a cultural reason that I knew nothing about. The family (grandmother and other distant relatives) all threw a handful of dirt in the grave and then we waited while the grave was filled and mounded. Megan then put flowers on the grave, Kathy’s daughter put a toy and the grandmother put a bag of potato puffs (the last food I saw Andrew eat. Then it was over and everyone returned to the life they are living. The photo is of the corn crib behind Haven 1.


Over supper, we learned of a potential crisis. Apparently, all of our transportation plans to get us all to Lusaka had fallen through and there was a rush to come up with alternatives. These included driving multiple trips to Lusaka or taking the local “blue busses”. Both options had problems. While Kel was talking to Martin (one of Ellie’s “sons” in Livingstone, Martin saw a bus that he thought might be from Lusaka. A few minutes later, a bus that had delivered passengers from Lusaka to Livingstone was acquired to take us on the return trip.


Last night was spent packing and last minute good-byes. We are all so tired but not ready to leave. This morning Ian took this photo of a Grey Lourie (also known as a "go-away bird"). It has a distinct call that warns other animals. Check out the link to hear and read about this African bird. It seems appropriate that it would visit us today.


Tonight we are at the Protea in Lusaka tonight and fly out tomorrow.

Monday, June 20, 2011

Highs and Lows

Today is the next-to-the-last day we will spend here in Namwianga. The highs included a chance to be with our kiddos after five days away. Little Kritz was imitating everything he could and was hugging and laughing with Tessa. It made my heart happy to see him today. Everyone reconnected with their children and a good day was had by all (children and clinicians). Ian also met with Mr. Phiri, the Superintendent of the Namwianga Mission to discuss his Eagle Project. He is planning to collect money to purchase materials and then to assemble clean delivery kits (CDKs). You will hear a lot more about this in the future. Tonight, the graduate assistants (GA) put on the Second Annual GA Olympics. Fun was had by all with events such as carrying a basket on the head, and modeling of Mrs. Moono items.


The lows were very, very emotional. Hamilton has developed rapid onset bilateral cataracts. We didn’t notice them when we left on Wednesday, but he is having trouble seeing and they are very visible in each eye. He must have surgery immediately and arrangements are currently being made. Unfortunately, we will be gone before this can be done so we will not be able to assist with the care and the recovery.


The biggest blow is the loss of Andrew. He died several hours ago of pcp pneumonia. He has had an upset stomach for several weeks and has been unable to hold any food. This is related to HIV/Aids. I’m not sure there is any family, but we will find out tomorrow. His life (and his suffering) here is over but he will be missed.

Ian doesn’t know yet because he has gone to spend the night with David. He will be very upset. All will be very subdued tomorrow at The Haven.


Sunday, June 19, 2011

Rhinos


(Saturday) I have finally seen Rhinos in the wild. It has always been on my list and it has never worked out but finally success. Ian and I were picked up at 06:40 by a driver and a guide, given robes to keep us warm and we headed into the bush. We were required to stop by the rangers lodge to pick up a guard and then we were on our way. We walked for miles behind the guard and guide/tracker before we found them. They were truly magnificent! Of course we had tea before we headed out of the bush. A morning well spent!

We had to shuttle back to Namwianga yesterday afternoon. Beckie took this shift because I had driven everyone to Livingstone on Wednesday. It felt like we were back home.

Victoria Falls (from the air)

(Friday) I waited until we got back to Namwianga to post the blog because the connection was poor. Friday, we headed for the helicopter pad for the tour of Victoria Falls. It was truly magnificent. There were six passengers and the pilot. The pilot wanted Ian next to him so he saw it all from the front seat. It was very expensive, but well worth every penny. I really enjoyed seeing it and the surrounding area.

We headed back to Victoria Falls for the day visit. Always dramatic. Ian wanted to shop in the Victoria Falls Craft Market so I headed to The Zambezi Sun. The Kubu Crafts is still there as well as many additional upscale shops. The Zebras were roaming the grounds and one South African tourist forgot they were wild and tried to approach one. She barely avoided a kick. We had to shuttle the students again so Beckie spent much of her time driving back and forth.

Friday night we too the sunset cruise. This year we went on the Lady Livingstone and departed from the David Livingstone Lodge. It was a classier trip then either of the ones we had done before. Ian made a friend (Webster) with a fellow birder who worked as a waiter. We were all very tired when we got back to the Protea.

Thursday, June 16, 2011

Chobe Safari


After a wonderful breakfast at the Protea-Livingstone, a coach picked us up for transport to Chobe National Park, Botswana for our safari. We breezed through Zambian Immigration exit and went smoothly into Botswana. Our safari company was the African Odyssey Safari Company at the Chobe Marina Lodge. It was different from the last several years. The process, however, was identical with delivery to the lodge to board a boat on the Chobe River. The river guide seemed to know a lot about animals and history and I enjoyed listening to him. Unfortunately, we did not see as many animals as we have in the past. No lions or leopards and only about 50-60 elephants, 10-15 giraffes, 40 or so hippos, and 4 small crocs. It was still a wonderful day. The lunch at the lodge was nice and the afternoon Land Rover excursion was about the same. We are all tired and decided to retire early.

Wednesday, June 15, 2011

High Tea, a Lunar Rainbow and a Lunar Eclipse

Today has been eventful. We began out tourist agenda today and will spend three days here in Livingstone, Zambia, with a side trip to Botswana. Several students and a supervisor went to the Haven this morning to make up some hours lost due to sickness. The remaining half headed for Livingstone. We had to make two trips because there wasn't enough transportation to get us all here. I rode down with Beckie (about 130 kilometers), dropped the group off and headed back to Namwianga for the second group. We made it to the Protea-Livingstone about 14:45 and had to start the shuttle to The Royal Livingstone for high-tea. Here is a photo of Beckie, Tammie and I after tea, with the Zambezi River behind us. The monkeys were in rare form and were trying to steal all the sugar packets so this employee is using a sling-shot to discourage them. We saw three giraffes on the way in. It really is very elegant. We sat on the deck until the sun set, and then began the shuttle to Victoria Falls.

Tonight was the lunar rainbow with an extra treat of a complete lunar eclipse. I could get no good photos of the moon-bow or the eclipse but I think some of the group captured it. Ellie also drove down hoping to capture it for a future postcard and photograph. I hope she was able to get a good one!

Tuesday, June 14, 2011

Another Evening on the Veranda

Another movie on the veranda last night, and this was most appropriate. The No. 1 Ladies' Detective Agency was introduced to many of our number. It was great to watch it on the veranda with many of our African friends. It really is a great series taken from the books by Alexander McCall Smith. Since we are headed to Botswana on Thursday for our safari we thought we needed to get it in. The evening began with Ian introducing Justin and Webster to smors. They were very pleased with the discovery. We then watched the movie introducing the series (without power failure) and ate popcorn again. The Africans must wonder about how we live our lives.

Today was our last day at the Haven this week. Tomorrow we head for Livingstone for our free time. Many of the kids seem to be getting ill. Quinton was running a fever of 101.7 and Jonathan was quiet and inactive. Maybe they will be back to form on Monday.

We have to shuttle everyone to Livingstone tomorrow. We have two groups going so it will be a long day for me.

Sunday, June 12, 2011

Kasibi


Last night we played a movie on the veranda of the Hamby House. We made popcorn, served bottled drinks and enjoyed the Disney animated movie, Tangled. Justin, our night watchman, and one of his friends joined us. It made me think that I need to send The Lion King to Ellie to keep here in the house.


This morning we all went to Kasibi to go to Ba Leonard’s Church and to his house for dinner afterwards. The road was even rougher than I remembered but all four vehicles made it. We had services in the arbor and then moved up the trail to the village for lunch. As usual, the village band was assembled and played while we were eating. Following lunch, we all had the opportunity to dance. It was a great day.

Saturday, June 11, 2011

Mancala

Last night, the faculty from the Namwianga schools had a welcome party for us in back of the Hamby house. Ba Leonard made another welcome cake. I am really going to miss him. Today, many of us went back to Choma. Ian wanted the traditional African board game we had seen at the museum there and I said we would get it for him for his birthday. I thought it would be a perfect gift to bring back from Zambia. Ian and I rode with Jeff, Judy, Scott and Janis since there was no room in Khaki Jackie. It was enjoyable to get a new perspective on Africa. Jeff hit some of the “humps” pretty hard and the top of my head is very sore tonight.


Ian and I headed into the market after a brief stop at the post office. Ian charmed the Indian lady at the fabric shop and got two chitenge lengths of fabric for the price of one. I also found a couple to get a shirt made, so I need to head over to see Mrs. Moono. I wanted a good photo of the market but I always feel bad about pulling out my camera. Here is a photo from across the tracks. The market consists of several hundred of these stalls stacked back in this area.


We went to the museum again to get some things and Ian got a drum as well as the Mancala board. We had a nice afternoon and headed back. It is hard to believe that things are winding down. We head for Livingstone on Wednesday to see the lunar eclipse and the lunar rainbow at Victoria Falls and will do our safari in Botswana on Thursday, helicopter ride on Friday, and Rhino walk on Saturday. We will then return to Namwianga on Saturday. We will work back at the Haven to make up for missing Wednesday afternoon, work on Monday and Tuesday, pack and then leave for Lusaka on Wednesday. It is really hard to believe.

Thursday, June 09, 2011

Happy Birthday, Ian


Today, Ian had his 14th birthday here in Zambia. It was a regular work day, but Ba Leonard made Ian a great cake for lunch. He decorated it and even had candles for us to use. The workers all came when we sang Happy Birthday. It was nice.

After work today, we headed out to Jordan’s Rock to celebrate. There were a few glitches getting there. David went back to get Ian’s birthday present and missed connecting with Ian. Two of the students also missed the departure time and were left behind. I went back to get them all and got separated from Ian because he, David and the students caught a ride with Gift out to Jordan’s Rock. I made it there just in time for the photo and the sunset. We cooked hotdogs over a fire, and finished with smores because Reagan brought the ingredients with her on Tuesday. It was a Great evening. David gave Ian a shirt he had made from a chintenge he had purchased on one of their excursions.
In this posting, I have photos of David and Ian, Ellie Hamby, Beckie carrying a mat the African way, and Ian with his shirt from David.

Wednesday, June 08, 2011

Strange Weather and Ants


There is now a crowd here at Namwianga. Everyone made it safely and there were only two suitcases misplaced in Jo-berg (and those were picked up today to be delivered here tonight.


We also survived the ant attack the other night. The bites are very painful and both of us had several before they were repelled. Ellie Hamby bought some more Doom (their insect poison and there were several cans on the shelf when we went to bed last night. I’m glad because at midnight, Justin, our watchman, banged on my window and said, “Mister, mister, the ants are swarming again and I need some poison. He got rid of them but it makes me happy we had Justin,


The weather is also strange. It is very humid and it rained again this afternoon. No one here has ever seen anything like it. It makes for some nice photos however.


Life here is very active now that Ellie has returned. She is certainly a force to be reckoned with. We have the documentary film being made while we are here. I’m glad Ellie is here and I certainly hope that she has a part.

Tuesday, June 07, 2011

30+


Beckie went to Livingstone to pick up Tammie, Reagan, Ashley, and two videographers. Scott Ragsdale and Judy Hopper were also on the flight and Jeff and Janis flew in from London. With all new arrivals we will have 30 people so Ba Leonard set up another table. The HIZ-Path kids all walked to and from the Haven twice today so they are all tired.

Ian and David found two more cameleons today. One was a large one. They seem to be such gentle creatures. They named them after themselves. David is the big one and Ian is the small pale one.

Monday, June 06, 2011

ANTS!

Help! We are being invaded by ants. Not the harmless ants we have in Arkansas but the HUGE, HUGE African variety of fierce, biting ants! I'm afraid they will overrun us during the night and eat Ian.

Changes

We changed therapy assignments again today. We change every week so that all students will have experiences with all types of clients. This really is a great experience for our students and we feel that it is a great service to the kiddos with whom we are working. There were great changes in our routine today however. They moved all the children from Haven II, sending all the boys to Eric’s Place and the girls to Haven III. Apparently there have been some problems with the house parents in Haven II and the house needed a good cleaning and a series of repairs before the kids move back in with new house parents. It will probably take all week. Here is a photo of Chrissa with Kritz and Ashley with Jonathan walking from Eric’s Place to Haven III where they will work.


There are always surprises here in Africa and I was able to capture this ox cart coming between the Havens today. These carts are usually loaded with maize/corn, wood or passengers but today it was empty.

Saturday, June 04, 2011

Saturday Break

We all enjoyed a day off today. Most of us went into town to do some shopping at the market after breakfast. There was only one vehicle going so we had to go in shifts. There were more aggressive drunks/pot heads then I have ever seen before. We don't usually go in on a Saturday morning so this may be typical. Many of the stalls and shops were not open. I took those who were with me to some of the shops on into the market. Unfortunately, the shop with the chitanges that I wanted was closed. There are many Seventh Day Adventists here and so many shops and stalls are always closed on Saturday. Ian had stayed with David at Eric's House last night and I ran into he and David in town. It makes me happy that he feels so comfortable here.

After lunch, I read and many others headed up to the Haven to be with the kiddos. One of our special kids even smiles and imitated "bubbles" in response to some that they had taken up. Others watched movies and played soccer. There were several kids watching so I pulled out my camera. They immediately started mugging. They were cute, but they were eating something black out of a coke bottle. I didn't ask too many questions.

Friday, June 03, 2011

Apple Cake Friday

Yesterday was fairly uneventful. Ian and I ran into town early to get some additional phone minutes. We did a quick run through the market to look for some additional chitanges for Mrs. Moono to use to make some thinks he wants to get for people. Everyone knows us and knows that we are looking for chitanges so the price is going up. We can still find a reasonable price or two but most have become very costly.

Yesterday afternoon, Mr. Roy and David brought some sugarcane by for Ian. They knew he wanted to try it so got him a stick while they were out. They stopped back by and brought enough for everyone to try. I tried it afterwards. It probably isn't something I would seek out, but I'm really glad I tried it. Zambia ia a big sugar producer and they are planning to extend their production of cane to generate molassas for the production of ethenol. We dry through the plantations at Mazabuka on our way from Lusaka to Namwianga. My Dad talked about chewing sugarcane when he was a child so now Ian and I have both had that experience. Ian is spending the night with David at Eric's Place tonight. He should have some stories tomorrow.

Today we found a cameleon on the ground. I took lots of photos and Ian played with it for hours. He even named it but agreed that we couldn't take it home. It was amazing to watch it change colors depending on where it was placed.

We had a huge lunch today with apple cake and vanilla ice cream for dessert. I know, I know, we are really roughing it here in Africa.

Wednesday, June 01, 2011

A Quilt and a Bible

The additional three people from Abilene are eating with us and all the spaces are filled. I can’t imagine where they put everyone when the regular HIZ group comes in September.


Our work is moving forward and the kiddos are always glad to see us when we arrive at 09:30 and crying when we leave at 12:30. They are clam again when we arrive at 14:30 (2:30 for most of you) and crying when we leave at 16:30. I hope that is just that they are sad to see us go.


Charissa picked up her quilt from Mrs. Moono this morning and it really is beautiful. She picked out the four chitanges she wanted and Mrs. Moono had it back to her in two days. It cost 200,000 Kwachi, or just over $40. As I’ve mentioned before, she uses the money to send her kids to college. She is a real gem.


David, Ian’s friend walked back to the Hamby House with us and stayed for supper. His Papa gave Ian a Tonga Bible for an early birthday present. Ian has been wanting one for awhile now and just yesterday, asked Mr. Roy where he could get one. Roy didn’t want to ruin the surprise so went ahead and gave it to Ian today.