Home at Last!

We are back in Searcy after a grueling trip. I have decided that the trip there and the trip back are the hardest parts of going to Zambia each summer. The Ethiopian Air flight left Lusaka Thursday afternoon. All had an easy morning with some shopping for last minute stuff at Arcades and at the airport. Check-in was smooth for most (Meaghan's walking stick had to be checked, but the others were able to carry theirs on). Landing in Addis Ababa in a thunderstorm was a little unnerving due to the number of times we had to circle the airport. The Ethiopian Air flight to the States was smooth. The only distractions were the kids that were allowed to run wild in the aisles, continually push the call buttons, etc. Fortunately, they were not Americans. They all seemed to be Ethiopian with some connection to the airlines.

We waltzed through immigration and customs (a first for me) and headed out to get a boarding pass on Delta. That is where the stress began. Keri's flight had already left so we had to get Ethiopian Air to arrange a flight to Memphis. Unfortunately, our plane was full so they had to send her to National to catch a direct flight on to Memphis. We were to fly to Atlanta and then on to Memphis. Both flights were to arrive in Memphis within an hour so we thought we were set. She headed off and Ian and I went to meet the others. Storms in Atlanta delayed our departure and left us on the ground in Atlanta once we arrived. I had no idea what had happened to Keri but in the end, we arrived 10 minutes after her in Memphis. Gene and Reagan picked us up and I was too exhausted to even carry on a conversation. We arrived back in Searcy around 11:30 and went right to bed. I did notice, when we pulled up in the driveway, that Charlene and Kay(the lawn fairies) had mowed the front yard and created a flower bed around our mailbox. We really do have great neighbors.

Back to Lusaka

Tuesday, we headed back to Namwianga after an hour or two at the Livingstone official craft market. It is so overwhelming for me to go into markets like that. Everyone is pressuring you to look at their items and telling you all kinds of tails about who they are, what they need, who made the craft, etc. Of course, most of it is not true and you must always realize that the price is way, way above what they expect to get. Unfortunately, it is very unpleasant for me. I often stick it out if I am looking for something in particular, but most of the time, I am unwilling to put up with all of that. That afternoon, we had to go back to the Immigration Office to deal with the problem I mentioned earlier. It was taken care of with the help of Mr. Perri. I will give all the details once I am safely out of Zambia.

Last night, while we were frantically packing, the power went off again. It is very hard to pack by candlelight. David came down to have supper with us and spend some time with Ian. I am so happy that he and Ian became friends so quickly after our arrival. He made this a very special trip for Ian.

After a final breakfast on the Hamby veranda, we packed most of the luggage on Khaki Jackie and loaded in the Eric's Place bus. Beckie found the largest bug I have ever seen so Ian had to have a photo of it, of course. Loaded, we said our goodbyes and headed off to Lusaka. My plan to meet with Ellie and Kel during our drive to Lusaka did not work out as we had planned so I will need to brainstorm with them some other time about some ideas for next year. I hadn't planned to come back until 2012 but Beckie becoming Dean of the College of Communication has caused the need to rethink plans.

Our final night in Zambia, we are in the Portea Lusaka watching the 2010 World Cup match between Ghana and Germany. We have really enjoyed being in Africa during much of the World Cup. We caught games whenever we could. We saw the draw between the USA and England at a Hamby neighbor's house. Other games we watched at the Haven, or at Eric's Place or at the Portea Livingstone. The USA has done well and we will watch them compete in the finals after we get home. Everyone here was surprised when they won their game this afternoon.

Victoria Falls (in the daylight)

We are all getting tired so many decided to sleep in this morning. Of course, I could not do that so I rousted out Keri and Ian. We ate a wonderful (made-to-order) breakfast, picked up a couple of other early risers and headed to the market on the main street in Livingstone. We checked out the tailor and found some wonderful items but I decided Ba Moono had made all we needed. We then hit the market. It is certainly more intense than the other markets we have been to but I did OK. Keri was overwhelmed. Ian did fine (but of course he wants at least one of everything).

We went to Kubu Crafts and Ian found a great soccer player made out of soda caps. We all met at the Shoprite car park for the lunch we had purchased at Wonder Bake. Then it was off to Victoria Falls.

Victoria Falls really is one of the most spectacular sites I have ever seen. Because the water is higher then I have seen it in the past, the spray was covering everything. The raincoats Keri brought were very useful. Ian, of course, had to see everything and got very wet. He also had an experience with a baboon as you can see in the photo.

The evening item on the agenda involved a sunset cruise on the Zambezi. It was not as nice as the African Queen but there was a lot more food and the staff were much more friendly. It left from the Waterfront Lodge but sent a bus to pick us up at the Portea.

Chobe National Park, Botswana

What a day!!! We headed out after breakfast and boarded a bus for our safari in Botswana. It was the 13 of us and 3 additional guys from Mexico who are in Africa for the World Cup. The ride to the Zambezi River crossing to Botswana took about 50 minutes, Immigration Exit took a few, and then a boat ride across the river. After checking into Botswana, we headed to the Chobe Lodge to begin the boat portion of the safari. We saw a large number of elephants, and more hippos than I have ever seen before. A Fish Eagle, lots of other birds and a few cape buffaloes topped off the morning. The lunch at the Chobe Lodge was great and included guinea fowl and wildebeest. The Land Rover portion was also great with giraffes, elephants, kudos and the addition of a leopard (a seldom seen animal), jackels, and sable antelopes. We also saw some "bee-eaters".

It was a great day. Since today is Sunday, we had a service in one of our rooms which Ian led. He did a great job. I will post photos later.

Livingstone and Tea

We were notified that Ba Leonard's mother had died during the night. In spite of that he came in this morning to help with breakfast. It was sad to see him upset. We took up a collection to help with expenses. In Zambia, they say that if you go to the hospital for surgery, you die! His mother had had surgery earlier in the week.

We strapped all the luggage on the top, loaded up Khaki Jackie and headed for Livingstone. We made it to the Falls Park Shopping Center for lunch before checking in to the Protea Livingstone for three nights. Ian headed to the craft market and got him a bowl. In this photo he is holding the bowl in his hand, but look at the t-shirt the Zambian lady is wearing. Keri designed that shirt and I traded it at this market two years ago. We didn't tell her that because there were some ill feelings from that first encounter. However, it is a small world.

This afternoon, we went to the Royal Livingstone Hotel for High Tea. It really is a wonderful ritual to end our time here. It is great drinking tea from Royal Albert china while sitting on the bank of the Zambezi River. After tea, we headed down to the river-side deck to watch the sun set. This is a facebook profile picture I took for Ian as the sunset. Tonight is an easy night so that we can make an early start for our safari in Botswana.

Last Full Day

It is early on our last full day here at Namwianga. I am sitting here in the "Africa Room" of the Hamby House watching the sun come up through the trees. It has truly been a great experience for all of us and I am so blessed to have been here at this time with Keri and Ian. This time has certainly been significant to Ian. He had his 13th birthday at Jordan's Rock in the African Bush. He was baptized in a water trough in the Hamby backyard. He has made a great friend in David that I hope he will stay in touch with through the years. He seems to have developed a real servant's heart. I am usually proud of him. He has certainly made me proud these last few days as he has pitched in to help with the medical mission preparations.

I thought this was a good photo for this post. I have been trying for the last six weeks to capture the Zambian flag blowing in the wind. Yesterday, I got it all stretched out in the wind. I wanted a shot for the IALP presentation in August and decided that this was the shot I wanted. Do you notice anything strange about the flag? I know that the American flag is flown upside down in times of extreme distress but I'm not sure what this means with the Zambian flag. Needless to say, I'm still needing a photo! But it seems somewhat appropriate to post a "distress" signal as we prepare to depart from this wonderful place.

Departure Looms

Our time here at Namwianga is drawing to a close and we are all feeling a little sad. We conducted our last therapy and "auntie" training sessions today at the Haven and we are saying our goodbyes to the children tomorrow. It will be a day full of tears because we are so attached to these kids. We see such a difference since we arrived and we will miss seeing them everyday. Of course, we are tired and we are ready to see our families and enjoy some of the things we have missed. But we will never be the same. We have all changed. We will never look at the world the same way again. Part of our hearts will always be here in Zambia, the "Real Africa."

Beckie and I finished our class instruction today and we will have our finals tomorrow. As I mentioned in a previous post, I will approach the classes differently next year. I must admit that the teaching has been exhausting, but I think I have learned as much as my students have.

We had an interesting meeting at the immigration office this morning. I will discuss this more at a later date. The power was off for most of the day. It went off around 4:00 and remained off until about 13:00 and then went off again around 18:00 and came back on around 20:00. I took advantage of the power outage and went out to look at the stars of the Southern Hemisphere without any light pollution, not that there is much in this part of Africa. It was absolutely beautiful, something I will always remember.

Saturday morning, we head to Livingstone for several days and a number of adventures. I will post when possible.

Cake and Chibwantu

Here are a couple more photos from our trip to Kasibi this past Sunday. Here is a photo of Leonard's cake made especially for our visit to his village. Here is also a photo of a lady serving chibwantu (a drink made with roots and cornmeal) to some villagers. None of us tried it because it didn't look too appetizing. It is a staple in rural Zambia, especially around this area.

Orphan?

This afternoon, a man came to the door with a child of about 10. He said that the boy was an orphan and wanted us to take the child. There is a process here and we set the process in motion only to discover that the man was a frequent case and was looking for some way to get money. It was so disturbing to see the child and we wonder where the child came from. We often take orphans but this one wasn't legit. The experience was a hard one for us.

Classes and paperwork today! We are planning for our last week and a half here in Zambia. It seems hard to believe. What an experience. The power was off again tonight. There was a game of Apples to Apples going along with another game of Risk. Ellie decided we needed popcorn and made it over a butane tank. It was great fun. David stayed for supper and the games and then Ian and I drove him home. It sure is dark in the middle of Africa at night!

Keri is Indeed Here!

Keri just said that I needed to post a photo of her so that everyone would know she is here. I took this one today. Keri is loving on Jana.

Internet Connection Again

I am trying to catch up on all my posts because they have connected me to the internet again. Ba Robbie wasn't sure why I have been having troubles, but he got me on again. I wanted to post everything while I had the chance.

Our last week here in Namwianga was relatively uneventful. Morning at the Haven, lunch on the veranda, then a quick trip to Kalomo. We picked up David and the new group from Lipscombe and headed to town. Ian headed off with David and we bought everything necessary. Ian said that there is much more of Kalomo beyond the street where we always stop. He said that there were many shops and stalls with many more items including fabrics, World Cup items, etc.

Tonight Ian met with Mr. Perri to discuss the donation of balls from Harding Academy. Unfortunately, the crate will not arrive until next week so Ian made arrangements for Mr. Perri to distribute them when they arrive. For those 6th Graders who participated, Mr. Perri will make sure that the balls go to whoever needs them most.

Sunday, June 13

Today was another adventurous day in Zambia. Ba Leonard invited us to the Kasimi Church of Christ. It was a challenging drive and we finally made it at 10:00. The Kasimi Singers came to meet us when we arrived and escorted us into the building. Will Pipkin preached and I led the Lord’s Supper, all with a Tongan interpreter. Following the service, Leonard invited us back to his village and hosted us for lunch. Ba Leonard’s wife poured water over our hands as we entered the house (a local custom) and Ba Leonard served us wonderful roast chicken, rice, relish and cabbage, followed, of course, with a “Welcome to Kasimi Church of Christ” cake. After lunch, we headed out to hear the Kasimi band and dance. I have wonderful photos. It was a wonderful day, even if that was the end. However, the best was yet to come.

Ian has been talking to me a lot since we arrived in Zambia and he is seeing how fragile life really is. He had made a decision to be baptized at services last night. Unfortunately, the power went out about 18:30 so there was some doubt whether there would even be a service. They put lanterns around and started, but the process was disrupted. They had singing groups and skits but no real opportunity to respond so we announced to Ellie and the gang that I would baptism Ian in the water trough behind the Hamby House. Word started spreading and we probably had a hundred people come. Before it was over I had baptized Ian, his friend David and four other people. It was a wonderful day here at Namwianga.

Saturday, June 12

We thought this day would be calm and a day to get away from the concerns of the kiddos at the Haven. We had planned to go to Choma for the day. We began with a casual breakfast and headed out around 9:30. We began by stopping by the Clinic to check on Alfred, our aspirational pneumonia kiddo. We were shocked that he had died during the night. Apparently, there was a problem keeping him on oxygen. The struggle on Friday had been to find all the necessary components but they finally got him set up. The power outage last night resulted in no oxygen at the Clinic so they transported him to the Haven. Unfortunately, he didn’t make it.

After a good cry and a prayer for Alfred’s remaining family (his Mom had died giving birth, we headed out. We searched for chitange material and some gifts, picnicked at the Choma Craft Museum, and then headed back to Namwianga.

We all had been invited to Seven Fountains for dinner. Sue and Rod Calder, native South Africans, prepared Potjie (potjiekos). It was a wonderful evening. There were many desserts, including Milk Tart, a traditional South African dessert. The road was unbelievable and it was most interesting to travel back in the dark.

Friday, June 11

(I am still unable to get on the internet to post any news, so I will start documenting this so I can post it when I do regain access.) I must mention the incredible game of Risk that has just been concluded in the Hamby House. Ellie found this game in the crate of items shipped over and Ian suggested that they all play. The power had gone out and Keri, Ian, Ellie and Kell started a game. The pieces were small and the candlelight made it difficult for me to see the pieces so I just sat back and watched. I have never heard such laughter and heard such stories. Every country Ellie landed in, we demanded a story of one of her trips there. Ian ended up winning. It was only after he took position of “the world” did he admit that he was a “ringer”. He had played frequently at Camp Tahkodah. The game and stories lasted for hours and the power didn’t come back on until the end. One of those nights to remember here in Zambia!

Lessons I've Learned!

I know my students from Harding have learned a great deal while here in Zambia. I also hope that my Zambian students have learned about communication disorders. However, I know that I have learned a lot about multicultural issues while attempting to teach this class. Here are just a few of the lessons I have learned (much through embarrassment).

1. teachers are responsible for supplying their own chalk and erasers
2. do not depend on electricity for class (I have had electricity for 4 of my 9 classes so far)
3. students who are late will stand at the door and wait to be invited in
4. 60% of the class will be late
5. always put the percentage on a paper (the score is insufficient)
6. always count copies of exams/handouts before class (never assume number requested is correct)
7. never assume a photocopy can be obtained quickly (it may take several hours, even if emergency)
8. always determine special holidays in advance (if you don't, you may be the only one there)
9. never assume that the schedule set the first day will remain. It may change several times during the class.

Many of you are reading the additional linked blogs about the HIZ-PATH trip. We lost Kelly (one of our infants at Haven 3) on Wednesday morning and the students attended her funeral that afternoon. Yesterday, Alfred came down with aspiration pneumonia and today Choolwe (Haven 2) is showing a horrible eye infection. Keri has been involved with these last two. She is frustrated that something that would be handled so systematically at home becomes a life/death situation here. Ian has certainly learned a lot about life.

Someone emailed me and asked why I had not posted a photo of Ian's Ba Leonard cake. Here it is.

We set up a movie night on the Hamby House back porch last night. We had popcorn, left-over birthday cake, ice cream and Cokes. We watched the first #1 Ladies Detective Agency. It was about a woman in Botswana and it ended up being perfect for us. Hopefully we will watch the rest in our remaining time here.

The Circle of Life!

Ian is now 13! It is so frightening to think that he is now a teenager. He had the most amazing birthday party yesterday. We drove in from Lusaka yesterday (more about that later), just in time to load up the Land Rover and Cruiser to head out to Jordan's Rock. It is a huge, smooth rock sticking up out of the bush near Namwianga. It has long been a site for gatherings and was where Ian's party was planned. We had a fire up on the rock to roast hot dogs and marshmallows, topped off with a chocolate Leonard birthday cake. The evening was topped off by watching the sunset in the African bush. Ellie gave him his choice of her photographs, Beckie and Gene gave him some Kwacha and he received cards from many of his new friends here. He was so moved. I think the day had a big impact on him.

Back to the last several days. I drove the Land Cruiser to Lusaka (5 hours with one stop [Tooters] half-way) to get Keri at the airport. Several passengers rode with me. The traffic was horrible in Lusaka but I made it to the hotel with a great deal of help from one of Ellie's friends. From the hotel, it was an easy drive on out to the airport. Keri's flight was only a little late and she was happy to be in Zambia at last. We drove back to the hotel (Golfview Lusaka Hotel) to deposit Keri's luggage and then took a cab to Manda Hill Shopping Center. Ian found his World Cup soccer balls and we ate supper at the Kilimanjaro Cafe. By the time we were done and headed back to the hotel, it was dark. Never, never drive in Lusaka after dark! The next morning we headed through Lusaka successfully, met Ba Hilali at the specified spot and headed through the Zambian Southern Province back to Namwianga.

Follow-the-Leader!

Keri's flight has left Washington, D.C. and is on its way to Africa, via Rome. I just talked to her early this morning and she had made it to the hotel in Virginia successfully.

Ellie just returned from Livingstone where she picked up Kell. He used miles and had to put together five different segments. Even his luggage made it! He sounds glad to be back in Zambia.

We discovered that there has been a Scout Troop here at Namwianga for many years and Ian went to Mr. Perri's office to make contact. He is supposed to see Mr. Perri tomorrow for the specifics, but we must head off to Lusaka to get Keri. Mr. Perri and Ian discussed the need for a biology teacher here at Namwianga and Ian has decided to come here and fill that role.

I got up early this morning and sat on the back porch with my book and cup of coffee. Here I was, sitting in Sub-Saharan Africa as the sun came up and I heard a bagpipe playing an old Scottish tune. It was only there for a minute, and then it was gone. Just when I decided that I had imagined it, I heard it again. I decided that it was a ring tone for someones cellphone. It was still a strange experience.

Here is a photo of a strange phenomenon we just witnessed. A line of caterpillars just marched across the sidewalk. It was at least 5 or 6 feet long. We were warned that they were poisonous and not to touch them.

And She's Off!

Keri should be in Memphis now, on her way to Africa. Please pray for her since she is traveling alone. Ian and I will be at the airport in Lusaka to pick her up Tuesday afternoon. I'm sure she is stressed, but maybe she can rest now that she is on her way.

More of the Zambia Medical Mission people are drifting in and our numbers are slowly growing. We are expecting Kel Hamby tomorrow. It is great having Ellie here and she has entertained us with numerous stories of early life in Zambia. Ian is in awe of her (as are we all). She has agreed to take a group picture of our group. We just need to find a space. She recommended "the Tree of Mercy" outside the Namwianga Clinic. Readers should check out her photos at http://www.photosbyellie.org/.

Church was great today. We went to the Johnson Auditorium again today. I sure hope we make it to a bush congregation while we are here. As usual, the singing was great. This morning, the HIZ-PATH group went with the kids. Ian even got up to help lead a song. As usual, I was very proud of him. I must admit that the kid's group was very lively. There was certainly more movement then I am used to but it was great. Just another of the many cultural experiences we have every day. Our Multicultural Class would certainly favorably compare to any. Tonight, one of the men's singing groups sat behind us. I am becoming aware of the rich singing tradition of the Tonga people. Harmony seems to just flow.

We had a bit of excitement last night. Around 9:00, Ian came running from the Estes-Binki House and said that the night-watchman was ill and that we had to take him to the hospital. When I got there, Beckie had gotten him loaded in Khaki Jackie, along with his bike and said we needed to take him home, in Kalomo. The interesting thing about this is that Makuas (as are all Zambians) are advised not to drive at night. It truly was an experience getting him home. The roads (or paths) were very difficult to maneuver. When we finally got him home, his brother came out and got Webster's shoes and directed us back out to the highway. He then rode Webster's bike back in the dark. We were glad to finally get home.

Lazy Saturday

This is the first day of our trip that did not have a tightly packed schedule. We even told Leonard that we would be responsible for our own breakfasts so we could sleep late. That meant different things to different people but everyone had a chance to catch up on their sleep. The only things planned for today involved lunch and a 2:30 trip to Kalomo.

Ellie Hamby has arrived and the pace of life has certainly picked up. She arrived around 21:00 Thursday night and there has been a constant stream of people through ever since. I certainly see why she is considered a mover and a shaker here in Zambia. I helped her unpack several crates of food and other items, many of which we will use. Still no word about our crate. It is with 4 others and has arrived in Mozambique but who knows when it will arrive here. Ellie said that she was glad to be back in Zambia. She referred to it as the real Africa. I've heard a number of people refer to Zambia in that way. I have heard a swarm of "African bees". Everyone just says to avoid them. I wonder if these are the "killer bees" we hear so much about in the States.

Here is a new photo of Hamilton. He is doing much better now that he is eating. That first day or two I wasn't sure he would make it but he has been blessed by all your prayers. Another little is struggling today. Kelly is having a hard time breathing. She is also a preemie and they are trying to keep her going. With your prayers, they may succeed. Death is a day-by-day occurrence here in "the real Africa."

Another Cobra (Ian)

Today while I was walking to the Haven I met this guy named Gift (his first name). As we walked out of the front gate of Eric's house Gift pointed to a snake on the fence and yelled "cobra". He and his buddy grabbed a hand full of stones, his buddy went to one side of the fence and Gift the other. then they started throwing stones at the snake. The snake kept dodging so Gift got a stick and flipped the snake up in the air and on to the road. He held the snake on to road with the stick while his buddy stoned the cobra. Finally they killed it and threw it to the birds. It was like the one David killed last week. We didn't see the spread hood, but everyone called it a cobra.

Language Groups

Life is easier now that we are not trying to get Ian to school every morning. He really enjoyed it, but it was hard to work into our schedule. Today, I woke up early and sat on the porch as the sun rose. It was an enjoyable place to read and drink my coffee. It reminded me that I am usually doing that exact think in Destin, FL on this date.

I spent the morning at the Haven watching the wonderful things our students are doing. The toddlers were all involved in a language group. Many were getting into all the gestures and words and some were learning the routine. It was impressive to watch. I am so proud of all of our HIZ-PATH crowd. The group in Haven 1 was also great.

My class met this afternoon. Half straggled in late and then wanted me to review everything we had covered but I told them to get it from someone else who had not been late. It really was a better class because the power stayed on the entire time. Several asked good questions. They still want to copy down every word on the PowerPoint. When I was reviewing the anatomy slides. I finally told them to put their pencils down and pay attention to the pictures. It went better after that.

Ian had an adventure today that I want him to post about so I will pass this on to him.

Happy Birthday Rachel

Ian decided not to go to school today, so he, Beckie and I headed to town after we dropped everyone off at the Haven. The purpose of the trip was to locate the Zambian Immigration Office and make sure that they were going to be open on June 17, the day we must renew our Visas. It was difficult to find and required a trip through the market. I found several nice chitanges but had to pay K40,000 ($7.89) for three. They were Zambian Crest and a Catholic Womens Association. I am very interested in the political and organizational chitanges. While we were in town, I had to take a picture of the ATM limits. They have recently been raised from K5 Million to K10 Million. Just the mention of those numbers put me in a spasm.


Today is Rachel's Birthday. Leonard made her a GREAT cake and had ice cream. We are lucky! We have a birthday on each of the remaining Wednesdays. Keri will be here to celebrate Ian's. I hope we can swing a Leonard cake for him.

Africa, Africa

I have been unable to get internet for more than a minute or two for the last several days. I don’t know whether the rain has caused the problem or something else. I just know that I am having a difficult time communicating with Keri and when there is no communication, the worry begins.

Ian headed off to school again today. I took him to Eric’s House so that he could walk with all the students, but he has to be there at 6:15. I just sat there and watched as they all walked down the deeply rutted African road headed to school. I am so glad that Ian is having this experience. He will never think about the world and other people the same way again.

I arrived at my class today only to discover that it has been moved from 10:00 Tuesday, Thursday and Friday to 14:00 on those same days. It would have been nice to know and we have a conflict with our time at the Haven, but this is how it is done here.

If you can’t tell, I’m having one of those low days. I should have known that it was going to be one of those days when I couldn’t get the alarm set on the Land Cruiser. At 6:45 this morning, it went off. I just hope all the neighbors were already up!

I continue to spiral! When I arrived for my class, I discovered that it had been reschedules for the rest of the term. Then when I arrived and set up my PowerPoint at 2:00, the power went off. Can you imagine teaching anatomy of the vocal mechanism to a class whose primary language is Tonga without pictures. I think I'm going to take to the bed!