an arch wherethro'

"I am a part of all that I have met; yet all experience is an arch wherethro' gleams that untravell'd world whose margin fades for ever and for ever when I move."
Ulysses by Alfred Lord Tennyson

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Location: Searcy, Arkansas, United States

Monday, May 31, 2010

Zambian School Day


Ian really wanted to go to school while he was here and we were able to work that out for today. The only problem is that school is supposed to begin at 7:00 and go until 12:00. It was hard getting up and getting him there but we made it in plenty of time. School also runs on Zambian time. It was thrilling to see Ian headed off to chapel with David’s arm around his shoulder, a blonde haired white boy amid a sea of Zambians. I hope he has a GREAT day.

It really rained yesterday. I am so used to being here in the “dry” season that the rain was refreshing. There were puddles right afterwards, but not enough to remain as a breeding-ground for mosquitoes.


Ian figured out that the Zambian K50 note was equal to 1 U.S. cent. I thought that it would make a good photo so I set it up.


The power just went off again. Leonard is busy making breakfast for everyone so we shall see what happens. Never a dull moment in Zambia!

Sunday, May 30, 2010

Rainy Day

I woke up early this morning, dressed and went to the porch to read with my coffee. It was very cloudy and rained for awhile. Church in the Johnson Auditorium, leftovers on the Hamby Porch, a brief rest and then back to the Haven. We were making up for the language group we missed Thursday afternoon. I watched Choolwe take 1/4 bottle as it poured rain outside. The rain seemed appropriate somehow. Maybe Choolwe is going to make it.

After church tonight, three people wanted to be baptized and everyone headed out of the building while I talked to several people about Ian going to school tomorrow. As we approached the Hamby House, I realized that everyone was in the backyard. We're talking about several hundred people. It was a little surprising.

Saturday, May 29, 2010

Prayers Needed!

Prayers are needed for one of our little guys. Choolwe is not eating. He is 1 year old but looks much younger. Although he appears alert and interested in his environment, he continues to eat little. If he was in the States, he would probably be tube-fed until he could build the strength and swallowing skills. Here is is on his own. Caroline has tried everything she knows and the feeling is that it is now up to God. I guess we should say that "we have done everything we know to do and God must handle the rest." Hamilton, the little guy I asked for prayers earlier seems to be doing much better.

We spent today making up for our Wednesday afternoon and Thursday morning trip to Livingstone. It was an exhausting day and we are resting until Leonard's wonderful supper. Last night he made his "famous" Apple Cake. I am fascinated by Leonard's cakes.

Friday, May 28, 2010

Black Mamba


My GBCC class finally met again today. I didn’t even try to take role because I was already behind and needed to get to the subject at hand (Intro. to Communication Disorders). I arrived early and spent around 15 or 20 minutes getting the projector hooked up to my computer as everyone arrived. Then, as class began at 10:00, the power went off. I decided to just wing-it and wrote terms on the board with the chalk we purchased at the little shop. A few people were taking notes, but most just looked bored. However, when I asked for questions, I received some very good ones. I guess it was a success. I meet them again on Tuesday. I am having a hard time getting used to a Tuesday, Thursday and Friday class.

After lunch, we dropped the gang at the Haven and Beckie, Ian, and I headed into Kalomo to mail postcards and to pick up some items at the little shop. We hope to show a movie tonight and wanted some drinks and popcorn. Unfortunately, popcorn is a no-go but we will still have a movie and Coca-Cola. We had an appointment back at the Hamby House at 3:00 so we really had to make tracks. Suddenly, there was a large snake in the road in front of us. It was about 5 feet long and a dark gray color. When startled, it stood up about 18 inches and darted off the road, still in that position. I never got a good look at the open mouth but all other characteristics suggest that this snake was a black mamba. None of the other snakes in our guide matched but the mamba certainly did. I wish I could have seen its mouth, but I was glad I was in the Land Cruiser.

We had our appointment with the director of Seven Fountains about a couple of children. I hope we gave them some helpful advice. Following, we toured the Namwianga Radio Station, the most powerful in Zambia.

Have I mentioned that it is the dry season here in Zambia and the roads are DUSTY!!!!!

Thursday, May 27, 2010

Long Road Home

Victoria Falls on a full moon is definitely worth the trip. The moonbow was not as majestic as I had expected but it was still spectacular. Just to know that few people have ever seen one and to be at the falls with almost no one else around made the trip worthwhile. Beckie asked everyone if it was something we needed to do with each group and everyone said yes. It cost around $30 per person to get in, and we plan to go back later, but everyone still thinks it was worth it. Several people were able to take photos but I was not. Maybe I can get one from someone.

Breakfast at the Portea was great and Ian and I walked down to the Falls Park Shopping Center to check out the craft shop. It actually was all the street vendors who have moved into an empty shop. It was great to see them. Ian was a little whelmed when they swarmed him but hopefully he will get used to it. I told him to look around and we will go back and shop when we return to Livingstone next month. We purchased some groceries for Leonard and new bungie cords and a tarp so that we could put our backpacks on the roof. That relieved some space issues but many were sick with upset stomachs so it was a long trip back. Before we left Livingstone, I had to find some eggs for Leonard (the SuperSpar was out) so I drove down the street to the Shoprite. They were more modern and had some 2010 Worldcup stuff and Ian got a water bottle.

Back into our routine because we plan to make up for our missed Wednesday afternoon and Thursday morning. We will be exhausted by next weekend.

Wednesday, May 26, 2010

Livingstone

We worked half a day and then loaded up Khaki Jackie to head for Livingstone. Unfortunately, I kept intending to warn everyone about my "insulin reactions" but demonstrated one today. We had run around all morning. I went to class only to discover that my class is Tuesday, Thursday and Friday morning at 10:00 and Math is Wednesday. That gave me time to transport someone trying to complete some paperwork for a child whose mother died giving birth and who arrived at the Haven this morning. Ian again helped with the infant motor exercises and feeding. By lunch I was out of glucose and sweating like I was back in Arkansas. Ian took care of me and explained to everyone why I was not making any sense.

We are staying at the Portea here in Livingstone, a short walk from the Falls Park Shopping Area. It is a really great hotel. Unfortunately, it looks like many of the shops have closed, but we got Ian some pizza and shopped in the SuperSpar for some snacks. The bookstore that had all the Zambian, Southern Africa and British books has closed. I was really looking forward to buying some. I did buy a great Zambia flag chitange in the gift shop for K30,000. It sounded like a lot but when I realized that it was $5.87, I went for it.

We will head to see the moonbow at Victoria Falls tonight. I hope it is worth the trip and the extra expense. We shall see.

Tuesday, May 25, 2010

Africa Freedom Day

May 25, Africa Freedom Day, is a national holiday across most of Africa. It represents an end to colonial control. All public offices and schools were closed and our classes here at GBCC did not meet. They just forgot to tell us about it ahead of time. It is strange to be standing at the front of a classroom waiting for 80 students to come to class and not one of them shows up. It can be really rough on your ego!

We had another day working at the Haven. Hamilton has survived another day and he looked a little stronger. Our goal is to see him through. There are several kids we thought we were going to lose last year that are going strong so we shall see. These photos are just a couple of photos that I have taken at the Haven.

Tomorrow we head for Livingstone to see the "moonbow" created by the full moon over Victoria Falls. There are supposed to be only a couple of places in the world where you can see one and the next couple of days at Victoria Falls is supposed to be an ideal time to view it.

Monday, May 24, 2010

'Mweenzu talangwi ankumo ulangwa mwida'

This is a Tonga proverb which means "Do not look at a visitor's forehead but at his stomach." This seemed appropriate since we worked on infant feeding and language enrichment all day and went to a welcoming dinner tonight.

This was our first full day of work. The assignments were made and discussed last night and, following breakfast, began work at the Haven. Caroline is directing the feeding program and supervising assessments and intervention. There are a number of fragile children here and Caroline is trying to pull them through. I cannot think of a greater experience for our students to have. Even Ian got to help while two other students are completing specific assignments. Marja is directing the language enrichment program and has incorporated language into all aspects of play as well as the feeding routine. Combined, the graduate students that are here are participating in clinical experiences that few professionals will ever have the opportunity to experience.

Tonight at 1800 (6:00 pm) the Namwianga Community had a welcoming reception for us at the Johnson Auditorium. We heard that they were planning one this morning but we didn't realize how elaborate it was to be. There were welcoming speeches by Mr. Perri, the Namwianga Superintendent, and others, and food including the worlds largest bowl of rice, roasted chicken and beef, slaw and cake. Mr. Perri made a special point to introduce Ian and hinted at the "Athletic Ball" project he was going to introduce when the crate arrives. Leonard made a special cake to be presented to us at the end which Ian went up to receive. Leonard titled this one "NICE CAKE". I'm not sure of its meaning. Maybe it's "nice" to welcome us back. Whatever, it was wonderful to receive one of Leonard's cakes. There was singing in Tonga and several special songs presented by a men's group. It was a high honor to be so welcomed. At the end, we were asked to sing a song. I'm beginning to appreciate how much our efforts are appreciated here. Be sure and check out the other Zambian blogs under "Blogs I Read".

Sunday, May 23, 2010

Zumba Isolation!

Last night everyone wanted to go back to their house to chill and Zumba (some sort of exercise program) which left Ian at odds. After several card games, and journaling, he got out his DS and played awhile.

This morning we walked to the Sunday service at Johnson Auditorium where we spent two and a half hours. They didn't have their children's worship this morning so our gang sat in the back with laps full of children. Ian found his friend David and sat with him. We were on our own for lunch (leftovers) and after cleanup, most headed back to their house. Ian desperately wanted to go to Eric's House to play with David so I took him for the afternoon. I'm really trying to be the dad of an almost 13 year-old, but it is hard. Here we are in the middle of Southern Provence, Zambia, and I'm letting my son head off with a virtual stranger. Needless to say, I haven't gotten much done. I'm going back to pick him up at 4:30. He hopes to go to school with David in the next several days. I hope it works out.

Saturday, May 22, 2010

Choma

Saturday here at Namwianga is relatively laid-back so we headed to Choma after breakfast. There is a cultural and craft museum and gallery (Choma Museum and Craft Project) there that is always worth a trip. It displays and sells some of the higher end crafts in the area and many purchased jewelry and baskets. We will go back when Keri arrives. We purchased broiled chicken and fries from the local Spar for everyone and had a picnic on the grounds.

Then we headed for the market. It is much bigger than Kalomo but still very much a community market. Ian was looking for some chitange material to have Ms. Mono make him a bag and found some at a great price. We paid K16,000 ($3.21) for two great ones. He found some other material he likes so we will go back. While in the market, he also found a world cup duffel-pack for K11,000 ($2.20).

Ms. Mono was impressed with the material and wants to return and get some for her projects. She showed him some material she had put back and said she would make him a bag out of that as well so he will get two African fabric messenger bags for K70,000 ($14.03). He also bought a little bag for each of his grandmothers.

Friday, May 21, 2010

Easy African Day

Today was relatively uneventful. We did teach our first class and Beckie and I spent the whole hour trying to document the Tonga names in phonetics. Probably not very successful, but at least we will be a lot closer when next we meet. We will divide the class on Monday and teach "Intro. to Speech Therapy" and "Language Disorders" classes. I gave Ian the run of the Mission while I was in class and he already seems at home here.

After lunch, we made a run into Kalomo to get some postage stamps ("I'm sorry, we are out. Try again next week."), some chalk and a "dusting board" (eraser) for the class at the little shop run by a lady from India. We also treated ourselves to ice cream. Beckie said that those that run the errands get the treats. Ian and I didn't argue.

When we reached the Haven to pick up all the rest of the group, Ian wanted to go to Eric's House, a place for the older children. I wandered around taking photos of cute kids. Ian immediately made a friend, has a penpal, and plans to go to school with David next week. He and Ian wandered all over the place and I worried, but did not go hunting for him.

We played "Apples to Apples" after supper because the girls said that if Ian ate all of his baked potato, they would play any game Ian wanted to after supper. We may have found a new way to get the kid to eat. Beautiful sunset as I was walking over!

Thursday, May 20, 2010

Beginning Life at Namwianga

The drive from to Lusaka was an eye-opening experience for most of our group. The hotel we use Lusaka has a very Western feel and our walk through the shopping area and dinner also were not that different from experiences in the States. However, as we left Lusaka and headed into rural Zambia, life began looking very different. We arrived here at Namwianga Mission just in time for a tour. Meagan is leaving after 5 years and is going to leave a big gap here. She introduced us to everyone, including this little girl at the Haven. Notice that she is tied onto Meagan's back with a chitange, a strip of cloth also used for clothing, padding, and everything else.

We then headed back to the Hamby House for dinner. As you can see, it was made up of typical Zambian foods all made for us by Mr. Leonard. He makes the best fried chicken in the world, second only to ______(fill in the blank, this is to keep me out of trouble). It really was great and even Ian ate a big meal. I think everyone feels better about the food for the next several weeks.

We also had a great breakfast before going to George Benson Christian College to be introduced in Chapel. We were given our schedules and we begin teaching classes tomorrow.

A quick trip to Kalomo to get kwacha, phone cards, a few supplies and a quick run-through of the market. Many bought chitange and Ian found, bargained, and purchased a shoulder bag with a Zambian flag on it. I was proud of him. He is taking to everything. He has been invited to a soccer game so I am about to head over and see how it is going. I am giving him the run of the Mission, but it is taking some getting-used-to.

Ian had hoped to play and I let him wear his runners but I thought this was a serious game and they would not be interested in a 12 year old. After he retrieved a few balls during warmup they invited him to join the game. They did indeed take it seriously but Ian held his own with/against a group of college students. He even took the ball away from one of them, much to his (and the older players) surprise.

Great supper again which we ate on the Hamby House backporch, then everyone headed home. Ian and I were invited back but we decided to call it a day. We were playing a game of cards when the power went off so we finished the game by flashlight. There is nothing like the stars in Africa without all the light pollution. You add to that a blackout on any light and we had to go out and see the stars of the Southern Hemisphere. WHAT A DAY!

Tuesday, May 18, 2010

We Have Arrived!

It is now 4:34 am and I am working on this blog instead of sleeping. As in all travels, it will take me awhile to adjust to Zambian time. Speaking of which, I have changed my clock to reflect the time at Namwianga. Still no photos to post, but check out some of the linked blogs below and you will see other takes on the last several days. There is just no getting around the fact that it is hard to get here. (OK, so I didn't have to beat my way through the bush like Livingstone and Stanley, but it is still difficult by modern standards.)

We are driving on to Namwianga Mission today so we will be able to settle in tonight and remain in one spot for awhile. We will need to drive to Livingstone (where we had the 7 missing bags sent on to) to retrieve luggage withing the next several days. Poor Lacey lost both hers but each of the other 5 received one of their bags.

Ian is fascinated with everything! Given a little encouragement, he will hang in there no matter what. Hopefully, I'll get some good photos today to post. I did want to post this one of the bathroom freebees. Where else would you find shampoo, body wash, lotion, and insect repellent.

Sunday, May 16, 2010

Ready or Not, Here We Come!

Our bags are packed and we are about to head over to campus to meet the van for the trip to the airport in Memphis. I have decided that I am getting to old to get ready for travel. Did you notice that I said "get ready"? I love it when I am finally on the road, but getting to the point where I can pull out of the driveway takes its toll.

There are already five or six blogs about our trip and I will post the links in the next several days. Please do not judge mine too harshly when you see the others. It is all I can do to make mine look like this, my fellow travelers obviously have much greater "blog skills than I do. Maybe they will give me some pointers as we travel. Hopefully, they will also link back to my blog. I am also prepared to post photos here and on facebook but that will be several days from now.

So I guess its Washington D.C. tonight and then off to Europe/Africa tomorrow!

Friday, May 14, 2010

Zambia Bound!

On Sunday morning, Ian and I will board a van to begin our trip to Namwianga Mission, Zambia. We have been looking forward to this trip for so long but I must admit that we are not yet ready. The blogs of our students suggest that they are packed and ready to go. Do you realize what this does to my panic level. It looks like an all-nighter Saturday night.

Lacey has posted our itinerary on her blog but I will post it here as well. Check her "schedule" for more detail. As with all our previous adventures, feel free to lurk to keep up with our adventures but I would also love to hear from you. Either post your responses here, or send me an email. I think Ian will also be posting here so it should be fun to see the perspectives of a 12 year old as he sees Africa for the first time. I am also adding additional blogs about our trip. Just check my links. We are flying Ethiopian Airlines from D.C. to Lusaka and back. Hopefully that will be better then my last trip on Delta.

Tentative Schedule

May 16 - van to Memphis, flight to Atlanta and then on to D.C., overnight in D.C.

May 17 - flight to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia via Rome, Italy

May 18 - continue on to Lusaka, Zambia via Harrie, Zimbabwe, overnight in Lusaka

May 19 - drive to Namwianga

May 26 - drive to Livingston to catch "moonbow" over Victoria Falls

May 27 - return to Namwianga

June 19 - "high tea" at the Royal Livingstone in Livingstone

June 20 - safari in Chobe National Park, Botswana

June 21 - Victoria Falls and Zambezi River (where my blog photo was taken)

June 22 - return to Namwianga

June 23 - drive to Lusaka

June 24 - flight back to States (reverse itinerary)

June 25 - arrive Memphis