HOT! HOT! HOT!

I can't believe we can come from cool Africa to this heat.  I think this every year but I am never ready for the reality.  As I left Church this morning the Arkansas heat hit me in the face.  How I long for a cool African morning.

Back to Searcy

We returned to Searcy this morning after a 16 hour trans-Atlantic flight.  One of the Delta people in Jo-burg said that the Jo-burg to Atlanta flight was one of the top 5 longest flights.  I enjoyed leaving there at 8:30 at night and arriving in Atlanta at 6:30 the next morning.  With all the hours we lost, it still seems shorter than the same flight during the day.  I didn't sleep at all, but saw a number of movies.

Our last morning in Livingstone was spent packing and getting to the airport.  The international lounge is tiny and there are few services there.  It looks like they are building an addition that will probably be ready next year.  We had time to shop in the GREAT shops at the Jo-burg airport, but my card wouldn't work.  I ended up borrowing money to get something to eat.  I get tired of dealing with the fraud prevention unit when I travel.  They seem to ignore when I call and tell them which countries I plan to go to.

Loose Ends

My plans changed during the night so I ended up with time to tie up loose ends.  I decided during the night that I was too old to take on the Zambezi in a raft.  I gave my spot to one of the students and they headed out at 08:15 and Beckie and I headed to town to take Dixie to the airport to meet Coy in South Africa.  We all head out tomorrow.  Beckie and I then headed to Bobbili Jewels and Kubu Crafts for one last visit.  On the way back to the Protea, Beckie suggested that we eat at the Zambezi Sun so we headed that direction.  Carol, one of the supervisors was walking so we picked her up on our way.

The lunch was great.  I ordered Zambezi Brim and homemade vanilla ice cream for dessert.  It was a relaxing morning.  I was going to head back to the market to get a bowl but didn't want to face all the people.

Shopping, Museum and Sunset Cruise

Yesterday was a low key day and I wanted to make the most of it.  After breakfast, I loaded up Khaki Jackie and headed into the central part of Livingstone.  I wanted to hit the curio market to get a few things and then head to the Livingstone Museum.  I have always wanted to go but have never had the time, so thought this would be the morning.  Ian went with me.  It was a great museum.  It had a natural history portion with most Zambian animals, reptiles, fish and birds presented.  The black mamba was about 8 feet long and certainly made you think twice about threatening one.  There was also a David Livingstone section with many of his personal letters and belongings.  That was also very interesting.  A section presented Zambian history since independence and another allowed you to walk through a modern day village.  The village was very interesting, and would be very significant to someone coming to Zambia without the opportunity of spending time in one.


From there, I transported people back from the market to the Shop Rite and then back to the Protea.  A group of us headed down to the Zambezi Sun and the Falls shopping area.  I still think that the men who do the beaded animals there are the best.  Of course they cost a lot more.  The dancers were out to welcome another group and the zebras were herding across the grounds, as if on cue.  Ian hiked around to the curio market and bargained for two large rhinos and got a good deal.  He really amazes me sometimes.  Of course, now I have to figure out how to transport them back home.

Last night we took the sunset cruise on the Lady Livingstone.  This Zambezi cruise departs from the David Livingstone Safari Lodge and is the one we used last year.  Ian's friend, Webster, was the guide again and did a great job.  He really knows all about birds and animals and we saw plenty.  I have never seen the hippos as active as they were last night.  Ian got some great photos.

I had planned to white water raft with everyone today but changed my mind during the night.  I decided I was a little old for that activity.  One of our group had not planned on going, but took my ticket.  I am glad it didn't go to waste.  Ian will tell me all about it tonight.

Chobe National Park, Botswana

As always, the safari at Chobi National Park was great.  It all started at Chobi Safari Lodge where we boarded boats for the first half and then returned for lunch.  Lots of elephants, crocodiles, baboons, giraffes, warthogs, hippos, impalas, and other expected animals.  There were two highlights however.  We saw a leopard close to an elephant carcass, and a crocodile planning to get a baboon.  The leopard was in the bushes not far from where we were sitting, but difficult to photo.  I got one that will work, but Ian got several.  He certainly used his new camera to the fullest.

Another great opportunity to watch the animals occurred when a herd (or whatever you call a group) of baboons began to cross from the island to the shore.  There were probably 45 baboons and they were crossing very carefully.  We saw why when a crocodile carefully began stalking the crossing.  We watched for awhile as the croc. got close and finally disappeared under the water near the crossing.  Something spooked the baboons and they all moved back from the shore.  The croc. went hungry this time.

One last dramatic event occurred as we road the little motor boat across the Zambezi (kind of like taking a small motor boat across the Mississippi at its widest point).  Ian rode the first boat across and I was in a second boat.  Ian forgot his camera bag on the safari rover and rode back across to get it, planning to ride back with me.  I had already crossed, so for a short while he was in Botswana alone without a passport.  I was already trying to figure out how I was going to tell Keri that I lost Ian in Botswana.

The Falls

Only two events were on the schedule for today.  After a great breakfast at the Portea we headed out to Victoria Fall.  Everyone had been to the Falls for the moonbow but this was their first time to see it in the daylight.  It did not disappoint.  The sun was at just the right angle to get a great rainbow shot in the dry.  Following the dry shots we put on our rain gear and headed into the wet.  The mist and the spray covers everything and you end up soaked.  I had our cameras in a large storage bag, but got splashed once while I had it out.  I have worked to dry it out all day and hope I was successful.  I slipped on moss fairly near an edge and had my life pass before me at one point.  I also hiked all the way down to "the boiling pot" at the bottom of the falls.  It was very dramatic.

Ian did some shopping at the Victoria Falls Curio Market and bargained for a great chess board.  Unfortunately, it will not fit in any of our luggage.  I will figure out something however because it is a great board.

When we returned, Ian and I went on into town to do some shopping.  I picked up several items that I needed to take back home, and a great Zambian nativity set at Kubu Crafts.  It remains one of the best places to find crafts without all the bargaining. 

At 15:30 (3:30 pm) we headed out to the Royal Livingstone for High Tea and the sunset.  It was majestic as usual and always a treat, especially after our time in rural Zambia.  Following the tea experience, we go down to the deck and watch the sunset.  There is something special about watching the sunset where we can see the mist from Victoria Falls.

Tomorrow we head out early for Botswana and our safari.

Livingstone, Our Second Home!

We’ve been to Livingstone several times this trip and it seems that the Protea is home, at least for the next five nights.

Most of yesterday was spent packing the crate and visiting the kids at The Haven for the last time.  Unfortunately, I was helping with the exams and the certificates for the class Beckie and I taught.  As it worked out, we didn’t get the certificates printed until around 23:30 (11:30 pm) last night.  In between the certificates, I had to pack.  We did have a great treat last night however.  Rod and Sue Calder made potjie [ˈpɔɪki].  It is a Afrikaans word for “little pot”.  It was a wonderful stew made with wildebeest.  It also cooks slowly over an open fire all day and the meat was so tender.  Apparently, it was a dish that developed as the original settlers traveled across the bush.  It was a wonderful sendoff.

Webster invited Ian and Ben to his Church this morning and of course, they needed a driver.  The three of us headed to Kalomo after breakfast to attend the Magrimond Church of Christ.  After a few false starts and wrong turns, Webster met us near the hospital and guided us there.  It was right next door to his home.  It was the exact place where we drove him when he was so ill.  It was good to see it in the daylight.  Church went great except for the preacher.  He wasn’t prepared!!!!  As the service started, the song leader introduced the visitors and said one was doing communion and one was the speaker.  Unfortunately, they had failed to mention to Ben and me.  I made it through but will be prepared in the future.

 

We rushed back to the Hamby House for lunch, said goodbyes, and headed to Livingstone.  Since we haven’t had water for over a week, we all rushed into our rooms at the Protea and had showers.  We really feel like we are back in civilization.  Ellie texted that they got water about an hour after we left.

We had a great banquet at Olga’s Italian Restaurant.  They had a garden area and the food was great.  Now for several days of adventures in the “adventure capital of Zambia.”

Last Work Day

 Today was our last day at The Haven.  We get so attached to these kids that it is really hard to say goodbye.  As a matter of fact, I will bet you that most of the HIZ-Path students head back up there tomorrow after we have packed up the crate.  We always have Ba Leonard and Ba Harold make cakes thanking all the Aunties at The Haven for all they do and for their patience around us.  We see and hear them doing many of the things we have trained them and the kids are really responding.  We all grabbed our special kiddos in Haven 2 when we took this photo. 

Beckie gave the final exam in the class and the GAs are grading it as we speak.  We need to print out certificates for those that successfully complete the class so I guess we will work on that tomorrow.  Unfortunately, the electricity went out again around 17:30 (5:30 pm) until 20:30 (8:30 pm) tonight.  Kel made some popcorn over the fire.  I think the Hambys like popcorn as much as I do.  It was enjoyable, sitting in front of the fire listening to Zambia stories again.  I will really miss that.

Tomorrow we pack up and clean and get ready to leave after Church on Sunday.  We will spend a week in Livingstone before heading back to the States on Friday.  I am looking forward to the showers at the Protea Hotel because we still don't have water. We are lucky it is winter, if you catch my drift.

Power Problems

Our time here is rapidly drawing to a close.  I am ready to get home and see Keri, but I am not ready to leave Africa.  One of Hemmingway’s quotes about Africa seems appropriate.  “All I wanted to do now was get back to Africa.  We had not left it yet, but when I would wake in the night, I would lie, listening, homesick for it already.”

I worked at The Haven this morning and some of our kiddos are accomplishing what we wanted for them.  I can already sense the students beginning to say “goodbye” and it is very hard.  You see them taking extra photos of their special ones.  I taught class at the college this afternoon.  That is very difficult, but we are just introducing speech-language pathology and audiology to the college students here.

The power was off for most of the day, and it is off again as I type this.  (It is now back on after a total of around 10 hours today.) It is always the perfect time to go out and look at the stars.  They are so totally different here in the Southern Hemisphere.  I am now able to spot the Southern Cross, and the Milky Way looks like you could walk on it.  Some of the students went up on one of the containers to lay down and see them.  I tried to get a photo repeatedly but it is impossible to focus and center in absolute darkness.  The only focused one missed a couple of people.  So sorry.

We have been having a hard time finding diesel and Ellie, Kel, Cheryl and some of the others headed off to Choma because they were supposed to have some.  Ian went with them.  Once again, he had a great adventure, getting back well after dark, unusual for makuas [məˈkuə] (whites).

Tonga Lesson

Ian is trying his best to learn Tonga and really is doing a good job.  I, on the other hand, am struggling with the language as I always do.  I do have some good words however that I will pass on.  I do not know how to write them correctly but can use the International Phonetic Alphabet to indicate how to say them.  For those of you who do not know IPA, I will say them when I return home.

"Big Cook" [muˈdʒiɡə muˈpɑti] - (the name many use for Ba Leonard)
Chameleon [ˌnɛɚrəmˈtɑmweɪ]
Tonga water spirit [ˈnjɑmɪ ˈnjɑmɪ]

Ian has many more but will post some later.

It was very cold again this morning so Ian built a fire.  I don't think it was as cold as it was yesterday, but close.  We don't have water again, but we have electricity.  As they say here, "W. T. Zed" (Welcome to Zambia).

Candle and Fire Light

The electricity has been on and off all day.  Of course, it is always off on Tuesday evenings from 18:00 (6:00pm) to 20:00 (8:00pm) as part of the roaming blackout, but today the electricity was out for several hours early morning, during the lunch hour through my class, and from 16:30-20:30 tonight.  It ended up being a great evening.  Justin built a fire in the fireplace and the Hamby's (Ellie, Kel and Cheryl) sat around and told early Zambia stories.  It was enchanting to be sitting in the candle and lamp light before a fire listening to stories about how it used to be here.  We laughed and laughed.

Fun Times

We had visitors from Lusaka yesterday.  Alfred ???, the only audiologist in Zambia, accompanied by two visiting audiologists (I'll get the names later) from Purdue University drove down to see what we were doing.  They arrived just before supper and had a long visit with Beckie.  They are planning a two-week audiology trip from Purdue to Lusaka beginning next summer.  They spent the morning with us before the five-hour drive back to Lusaka.

Last night, while Beckie was visiting with our guests, Ian once again shared our smore treats with Justin and Webster.  They roasted the marshmallows over the brazier they use to keep warm at night while they are watching the houses.  It was 3.8 degrees Celsius (39 degrees Fahrenheit) yesterday morning and even I was cold.  I think this is the coldest I have experienced here in Africa but this is their winter.  They say it will continue to get colder.  I just keep thinking how hot it is back in Arkansas and I decide that this is perfect.  We moved our movie night into the Meagan’s House.  The No. 1 Ladies’ Detective Agency is a great one to see while we are here and those that saw it really enjoyed it.

Some of the students found another chameleon and took it to The Haven for Ian.  He carried it away and is keeping it for Webster to see.  Webster has asked him to show him one again this year.  Zambians are taught that chameleons are dangerous and to stay as far from them as they can get.  They are always amazed that Ian is not frightened of them and are always surprised that they are not dangerous.

Kasimi Village

Kasimi Village Band

Today we traveled into the bush to Ba Leonard’s village of Kasibi.  We loaded into the Land Rover and Land Cruiser as well as two pick-ups and headed out.  The trip was so bad that the bus wouldn't make it. It was the first time some of our students had ever ridden in the back of a pickup but it certainly was dusty.  It took approximately 45 minutes to an hour to get there.  The bush Church there in Kasibi Village had fewer people today so we met inside.  As usual, the singing was great.

Kasimi Village Band and Dancers

Following the service, we loaded all the kiddos and others into the Land Cruiser while everyone else walked back to the village.  Ba Leonard had fixed lunch for us there (a second run of his fried chicken).  Following lunch, the Kasibi Village Band played and the students and the villagers danced.  It was a great day.  Ba Leonard's father, Jamison Sichimwa was there again and played his kalumbu (a local instrument) for us.  We have a photo from approximately 10 years ago and Ian wanted his photo taken with him.

Ian and Jamison Sichimwa in Kasimi Village

We left Kasibi around 14:00 and the students traded so that others could ride in the pickups.  My treat was that the chorus (7 male Zambians) rode in the back of Khaki Jackie and sang for the entire trip.  It was surreal with a caravan driving through the bush to the accompaniment of Zambian music.  What an experience!!

We have not had hot water or electricity at the same time for the last several days so I rushed to the shower the minute we got home.  Alas, no water at the Hamby House.  Then I headed to the solar showers, but no hot water.  The shower was needed so cold it was.

A Day of Celebrations!!!!!!

The Zambian Soccer team beat Ghana today and Zambians are so excited.  After winning the Africa’s Cup back in February, they seem unstoppable.  I certainly hope that is the case!

Today is also Ian’s 15^th birthday.  Our traditional celebration is to go into the bush, to Jordan’s Rock for a wienie-roast and smores.  Sue Calder worked hard to pull it all together and Ba Leonard and Harold made him this great cake.  There was little left but it sure was great.  We always build a fire up on the rock and watch the sunset.  The photo is above.  Ian’s friends, David and Darrel came but I think we intimidate them.  After the cookout, they invited Ian back to Eric’s Place and doused him with water.  Ian expected it since this is the Zambian way of greeting birthdays.  David and Big David held him while George carried the bucket (bigger then he was).  It was a good day.

This morning we headed back to Choma.  Dixie got some great pictures and I’ve included one here. This stall is selling capenta [kəˈpɪntə] or dried fish.  This is not the most pleasant smell in the world but a staple eaten with nshima.

Activity!!!!!!!

Most of you know that Keri and I did some volunteer work in the White House during the 90s.  It always amazed me when the President was approaching, everything kicked into high gear.  Well, the same thing has happened here. For the last several weeks, the activity has really picked up around here.  Work is always being done around here but the pace has quickened.  In Kalomo and Livingstone, people stop me and ask when Ms. Hamby is coming.  Ellie Hamby has returned to Namwianga and she joined us for dinner tonight along with her son Kel and James Estes.  Ba Leonard and Harold made a welcome cake with decorations.  Not to mention the apple cake he made for lunch.

Dixie, Ellie, Beckie and Kel

Just as everyone sat down for supper the power went out.  Ian jumped up to help Ba Leonard lite the lanterns and we had a peaceful dinner.  This photo is very bright because of the flash, but noone thinks twice about the power going off.  You expect it to be off several hours, and you reach into your pocket for your flashlight, which we all know to keep ready.

Hamilton

George and Jason

George and Jason stopped by The Haven to visit.  I've known these kids since 2008 and they are two of my many favorites.  George, the one on the left, was in my blog back in 2008.  At that time, I was one of the few people who could get him calmed down.  I remember those visits every time I see him.  Little Hamilton, the child we almost lost in 2010 to feeding problems and who had the cataracks last year, is a ball of energy now.

I taught anatomy to the George Benson Christian College class today.  They appeared very interested and asked many questions.  Unfortunately, they asked what they could do for "my father who was attacked by a stroke" and "my 7 year old nephew in a Western Province village who is unable to speak or to swallow without great difficulty".  Without actually seeing them, it is impossible to provide much assistance.  Hopefully, we will get these services available in Zambia soon.

Livingstone, Again

After our wonderful breakfast at the Protea, the HIZ-Path group headed back to Namwianga and Ian and I stayed in Livingstone with Carla, the supervisor returning to the States today.  We took her to the Livingstone Craft Market and the Kubu Crafts shop that has moved to the Shop Rite Shopping Centre.  She purchased a couple of things but seemed ready to go.

Mama giraffe near Victoria Falls (taken by Ian Tullos)

Ian and I messed around after dropping Carla at the airport at 11:00 before needing to be back to pick up the new supervisor that was coming in on the British Air flight.  Carol, and her daughter Laurel arrived and we began the Dan Tullos tour of Livingstone.  Those of you who know me know exactly what I'm talking about, and those that don't, just think rapid.  We spent a couple hours getting money at the bank, went out to see the Royal Livingstone and the Zambezi Sun, had dinner at the Waterfront Lodge, and the went to see the Lunar Rainbow.  We decided it would be unfair not to show Carol and Laural the lunar rainbow since we were already there.  Ian and I got to see it two night in a row.  The amazing thing about this rapid tour was the number of animals we saw.  We saw an elephant crossing the road, a giraffe family with a newborn calf, a herds of zebras and impala, baboons and monkeys.  I have never seen that many animals on the road between Livingstone and Victoria Falls.

Dinner at the Waterfront was great.  The sun was setting as we sat down and we were right on the Zambezi.  I had warned all to use insect repelant so the meal was delightful.  If you ever come to Livingstone, that is a very good place to stay.  The moonbow at Victoria Falls was great again but perhaps only 20 people there.  There was a group of Ole Miss Rebels.  It is a small world!

We got up this morning and headed back to Namwianga.  We passed at least three big groups of monkeys.  They are the first I have seen on that road.  The afternoon was back at work.

Livingstone

After working this morning, we all headed to Livingstone to see the lunar rainbow at Victoria Falls.  Victoria Falls is one of the seven natural wonders of the world and several times a year, during a full moon, you are able to see a lunar rainbow.  It really is amazing.  Ian and some friends hiked around and saw it from different angles.  I'll try to post a photo from Ian's camera when I get them loaded onto my computer.

Ian and I brought Carla, one of our supervisors from Georgia, to see the falls in the daylight and to have "high tea" at the Royal Livingstone.  We will all come back for those experiences at the end of June, but Carla is flying back home tomorrow.  We enjoyed showing her around.  There was a herd of Zebras near the entrance to the Royal Livingstone so she took several photos before "high tea".  We took her to see the Zambezi Sun Hotel and discovered that it had a gift shop that was more reasonable than the Royal Livingstone.  It is probably worth a return visit.

Wish Keri was here with us!!!!

"An American Zambian"

Today is the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Elizabeth II.  I wish I could have seen some of it.  I especially wish I could have seen the flotilla as it moved down the Thames.  I guess I really am an Anglophile at heart.  I thought about asking Keri to record it but our system is messed up so I didn't see it.  I would so have enjoyed being there to see all the pomp.

One of the containers arrived today.  Ian was right in the middle of everything.  They had everything organized so all Ian could do was help get everything out and sorted.  I overheard someone ask one of the officials who the makua ([mə`kuə] white) was that was working so hard and the official said it was an "American Zambian".  Ian has earned a lot of respect here and I am so proud of him.  Many of his Clean Delivery Kits were in this container and I took many pictures for Ian's Eagle Project presentation.  He has now officially completed his Eagle Project.  He just has to write it up.

Tomorrow, we all work half a day and then head to Livingstone.  Ian and I will be taking Carla, one of the supervisors, to Victoria Falls, high tea at the Royal Livingstone and then to meet everyone else for the lunar rainbow.  More about that tomorrow.

Movie Night

Last night we had our first movie night.  On movie nights, we set up the cd projector and screen, hook them to my computer and show a movie to the students and anyone else that stops by to see it.  We set it up on the veranda.  Last nights movie was Faith Like Potatoes about life in southern Africa.  It really is a good movie if anyone gets a chance to watch it.  We made popcorn and watched the fruit bat circle around for a minute and then got down to the movie.  It was a very nice evening.

We worked all day today to make up for missing this coming Monday afternoon and Tuesday morning.  It's full-moon, lunar rainbow time and we plan to hit Victoria Falls Monday night to see it.  I'll keep you posted.  Tomorrow is Sunday, and we are all looking forward to a restful afternoon.